Christian Wijnants Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
"Gone Fishing " could have read the note posted on the door of the first model to walk at the Christian Wijnants show on Thursday, with her anorak, wide shorts and floppy hat, combined to convey a cute nonchalance in unusual color schemes and materials.
The show was based on the paintings of Peter Doig and worked in a sense of isolation in the wilderness.
It relied upon unusual textile combinations like sail cloth and latex, and shades that looked like someone had mixed special blends of water colors and dyed the clothing to create original tones.
Some or all of the above left me feeling love for the designer and declaring to myself it was the most refreshing and original collection I had seen in ages.
But why? Well, the crystalline sail cloth and latex used for deep green anoraks or quirky tops, seemingly inspired by algae washed up on a desolate shore, was one reason. The materials looked so original and as if they had been treated to create a smooth, almost hand polished finish.
These textures were juxtaposed with thicker, richer textiles like crocheted or macramé culottes to add a bit of luxury or cuteness.
And the outfits were dressed up with strappy shoes, tied with a stretch of latex in bold colors across the foot that looked so new.
Wijnants delivered what he called unexpected layers, from rugged poly trench coats combined with silk shirts, to, say, his more dressy, shiny chain motif dresses where the chains shimmered in pearly oranges reminiscent of the pale hues of aquatic flora that inspired the color schemes.
Bolder colors worked in with paler shades also made the collection look stand-out, with the designer clearly having a great eye for color.
Consider an oxide green combined with a blush pink or sky blue or a latex dress in a deep turquoise worn with a creamy jacket.
The show looked like a master painter had mixed beautiful watercolors for the pieces, dreamt up on an island of fisherman that had decided to knit their nets together and cut out odd shapes of sail cloth and other working materials and give fashion a shot. In doing so, they, or Wijnants to be precise, created here a new cool aesthetic.