Christopher Raeburn Menswear Spring Summer 2015 London
After the sombre mood of Matthew Miller's show, Christopher Raeburn offered an almost diametric opposite: a boys-and-big-toys, all-action adventure that highlighted precisely why the military culture Miller questioned has such an enduring appeal.
Raeburn's collections are easy to watch: confident, interesting, believable, with a relaxed palette of elements - sweatshirts, anoraks, track pants and bomber jackets. And his conviction is yielding results: he's become, in his own words, one of the biggest "little guys" at LC:M, building a thriving commercial business. (Advance drops of his AW14 collections have already sold out at some retailers.)
Inspired by the surreal landscapes of Arizona's desert boneyards - a vast collection of military aircraft, destined for re-appropriation - Raeburn went into full-on Flight Club mode. Parachute and flight suit fabrics were reworked into lightweight, patchworked outerwear and separates, and teamed with mesh vests and t-shirts stamped with slabs of rubberised colour and bold-blocked khaki and orange airplane motifs. It wasn't subtle - but part of the fun with Raeburn's clothes is in the recognisability of the themes. And the designer always manages to sneak enough things in under the radar (this time, in the form of fluid, neutral-coloured separates, translucent overcoats, washed floral-print bombers and inside-out, exoskeleton-like jacket/rucksack hybrids) to ensure each adventure leaves you guessing at the next port of call.