Christopher Raeburn Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2016 London
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At this point in his label’s development, most people know exactly what to expect from Christopher Raeburn. It’s one of the brand’s charms, in fact: that logic and familiarity, that sure-stepped evolution which has resulted in a staple set of signature elements – which is perhaps why today’s shift in mood was so unexpected, and effective. In place of the sweatshirts and joggers which have dominated recent shows, Raeburn recycled airbrake parachutes – the banded, utilitarian devices used to slow down aircrafts making emergency landings – to form the backbone of a light, tropically inspired collection. The parachutes appeared as long wrap skirts or as panels inserted into wrap shirts, jackets, and dresses. Combined with layered sheers, they formed an unusually tactile series of surfaces, and added a fluid femininity of a kind not traditionally associated with Raeburn’s work.

That fluidity also extended into patchwork shift dresses which fused those silk sheers with lightweight mesh in olive, black, and clear blue, and into bandeau tops teamed with elegantly belted trenches. There were still nods to tomboyish utility, from sheer-paneled parkas and drab military jackets to printed sweatshirts and tees. And there’s no doubt that, in stores, this collection will come bolstered with all those other Raeburn staples. But as a statement of sensuality, this was an intriguing sidestep for an established name.

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