Christopher Shannon Menswear Spring Summer 2016 London
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Christopher Shannon Menswear Spring Summer 2016 London Credits: Gio Staiano / Nowfashion
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Hedonism ain't what it used to be. Once upon a time, it meant Roman orgies and Studio 54 excess.  These days, in Britain at least, it's the excited annual frenzy of the UK's overexcited youth descending on the beaches of Europe via Easyjet for a fortnight's burst of vodka shots, sunburn, podium dancing and foam parties. But in some respects, it still means exactly what it always has: liberation.

So the mood of Christopher Shannon's show, which sprang from those dazed Mediterranean memories, felt nicely appropriate for a designer who's seemed of late to be somewhat weighted down by his BFC/GQ Menswear Designer Fund win. After a few seasons of increasing refinement and stability, he shook things up with an aggressively deconstructed new mood, chopping and splitting garments into a swathe of almost-pieces. High-cut, curving athletic shorts and mesh romper suits alternated with intriguingly flimsy, baggy sportswear. Shirts were splintered by zippered, uneven strips, and denim came cut open and bonded together with gaffer tape. Sweatshirts were armed with cigarette-lighter motifs and warning slogans (DAMAGED, NEEDY) whilst discarded bikini tops, clustered fluorescent-coloured keychains and shards of shaving foam clung to the models like morning-after debris.

And out of all the chaos, there were shafts of a way forward, from the slumped, dragging trousers and flat, flap-pocketed tunics that opened the show to the neon-sliced, thickly layered jackets that closed it. Shannon should take holidays more often.

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