It’s on! The 21st edition of the Mercedes Benz FashionWeek Amsterdam. Yesterday, Dutch designer Claes Iversen (yep, Danish roots) opened the ‘week’ that closes on Monday night.
Claes Iversen, former intern at Viktor & Rolf, started his career in 2008 by showing elegant couture, which he still does. Iversen’s style is always feminine, his trademarks are clean interpretations of classics as the trench coat, the shirt and exuberant 3D embroideries. One of his most famous designs, you might know; the full embroidered flower dress, Iversen designed for The Common Linnets singer Ilse Delange, number two of the Eurovision Song Contest. In 2010, Iversen opened a couture salon at the Herengracht canal in Amsterdam, were he welcomes private – royalty - clients.
And now Claes Iversen is ready to conquer the world, starting in Amsterdam, with his first ready-to-wear spring / summer 2015 collection, named II by Claes Iversen, which the designer describes as: ‘Sober, with a luxury effect’.
The starting point for II was folding, not angular plissés, but subtle pleating in necklines of dresses and elegant draping. The strongest, and most interesting was Iversen relax take on hiss beloved shirt. Most of them were wide and short at the front, and a long at the back. Some looked clean and crispy and were decorated with delicate broderie anglaise.
More casual, were grey sweatshirts adorned with embroidered crystals and a quirky poodle puff print, combined with simple straight black trousers. The color palette existed of whites, nudes, pastels diversified with noble bottle green and intense petrol blue, as seen in a long simple graceful strapless evening robe.
Iversen mixed his first, tasteful ready-to-wear designs with some stunning couture showstoppers as a voluminous golden yellow dress with large pleated ruffles.
There was pleating again, this time the Watteau-pli, named after the pleats at the back of the silk dresses painted three ages ago by Antoine Watteau. ‘Iversen pli’s’ decorated the back of voluminous, and dramatic flowing capes and evening dresses. For those who know a bit of fashion history, they clearly referred to the sculptural designs from the Spanish designer Christóbal Balenciaga. Claes Iversen is certainly not the first contemporary designer who proves how timeless and deadly chic the style of this Spanish Master still is.