At Comme des Garçons western ceremonial dress looked to be the spark of inspiration for designer Rei Kawakubo this season. If Comme fans have been holding off on getting hitched until the groom and all his best men could wear the brand from head to toe, well, it's finally time to book the chapel because this collection had it all.
Filled with wearable designs in the more traditional sense, which is actually saying something as Kawakubo usually tends to challenge sartorial norms, the askew romanticism of this collection was uplifting. Watching the models in their tail coats and double-breasted suits crafted on the diagonal immediately got this show off to a quirkily endearing start.
It was an emotion that continued to bloom with each passing ensemble as the naiveté of slanting suiting moved into colorful childlike scribblings on body suits, which itself morphed into pieces adorned with tattoo-like panels of calligraphy on suit jackets. The designer also somehow made the introduction of zebra and Dalmatian dot fake fur shirts worn with glossy leather jackets and wrap skirts work within her chosen theme. And the final group of ensembles, which consisted of some stunning black suiting crafted to break apart like puzzle pieces at the many curving seams to let the white undershirt slice into view, were a master class in fashion construction.
With this show Rei Kawakubo was able to marry her need for the eccentric with her customers’ craving for functionality. The collection truly was a match made in heaven.