Wow. Who knew that Rei Kawakubo had a disco ready and waiting to be unleashed? So reserved and restrained or seemingly difficult can her collection offerings be - little or no music, an audience crowded into an intense space, the photographer’s pit piled tightly high - one wonders how long she’d been sitting on this surprise. The longer she held out on it, though, the more impact this season made. Because glitter, sequins, disco bright lights and beats made this one of her most explosive shows and collections ever. It was one of the few shows that, despite a lot of grappling for phones to take shots of the worn-inside-out glitter or doll-adorned jacket and short combinations, people finally put them down to burst into enthusiastic applause. And remember, that doesn’t really happen anymore. To the theme of “what’s on the inside that matters”, this was just as much about the models showing off their best dance moves as it was Rei raiding a box full of magpie tricks. It was simply a standout show. [Read more...]
Supernatural Comme des garçons
by Giampietro Baudo - MFFashion
Strobe lights lit up the dancefloor in the centre of the Salle Wagram. Supermature by Cerrone pumped through the speakers at full volume. It’s time for Rei Kawakubo’s disco, taking the Comme des Garcons boys to a rave, the serious kind. Hair slicked down with tape, covered in neon coloured glue or wearing shimmering skull caps. A streetwear inspired uniform of tailored jackets and bermuda shorts, completely covered in Swarovski crystals or micro sequins. On their feet, Nike Air Max 180 - part of a new collaboration - with neon inserts. The party started, models coming in, jumping around, banging into one another and letting loose, all in patchwork jackets that pair British stripes, worn out soft toys, psychedelic zebras, decadent brocades and gold accents. A surreal melting pot of inside outs, the flip side of last season’s “What’s on the inside matters” theme, reversible coats, perforated knits, fleeces, T-Shirts with artsy messages and burlesque corsets edited onto traditional tailoring. Pieces that transformed into real works of art with three jackets covered in fragments of trash: dolls legs, soft toys, puppets and poetic astronauts, all a bit creepy and the fruit of a collaboration with Mona Luison.