Costume National Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Milan
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“This collection is a mix between freedom and elegance,” said Ennio Capasa about his latest menswear show for Costume National. That might be true, but if so then it was a mélange well anchored in Western wear with just a slight rock and roll twist.

There were quite a few pieces in the collection that were undeniably descendants of the cowboy style. Chaps became button fly brown suede pants with lacing details down the legs. Western dress shirts were transformed into a tailored two button black jacket with semi sheer panels inserted at the top to let the cream colored shoulder pads seep through or a leather shirt with contrasting suede pockets. And most dramatically as a zip front leather jacket with gold flame embellishments licking up the torso. Then there were the pointed toe cowboy boots that were cut off at the ankles, sometimes tricked out with metallic features for an added rocker touch.

While the Western idea is a familiar menswear touchstone what was the true surprise at today’s show was Capasa’s bold introduction of color. A life long lover of black, gray and white, this season the designer proved that he too believes that orange is the new black. Using the shade, both burnt and bright, in a number of his designs. Often pairing it with a rich purple, baby blue, navy or brown.

The rocker meets redneck mix never got out of control. It toed the Costume National line perfectly well. And who wouldn’t be tempted to slip on a pair of this season’s blue suede cowboy ankle boots and line dance -  or crowd surf for that matter -  until the cows come home.

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