Costume National Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Costume National Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

If the Costume National collection felt a bit one note at least it was a strong one that resonated long after designer Ennio Capasa’s show was over.

Recently, the Costume National womenswear collection seem to be born fully formed from the brand’s menswear line. As this is a season of women wearing menswear staples this worked in Capasa’s favor. Once again the man’s suit, or to be more specific the tuxedo, looked to be the foundation of the collection.

The clothing, showing with a black backdrop and black carpet, making it all the more difficult to pick out the details of the outfits, was what you would expect it to be coming from Capasa. Deftly tailored and well proportioned. But where things got a bit more interesting in this rather minimalist and slightly repetitive show was the way the designer played with layering his fabrics and how he experimented with blending of matte and shine fabrics.

Capasa created ensembles that featured wrap skits over pant that came paired with coats with fly away flaps at the front or fitted jackets. Skirts showed up in cascades of asymmetrical layers and sleeveless tops would feature one silk lapel or be cut in the collection’s only print which consisted of blurry red diagonal lines on a black background. The matte and shine aspect of the show was done in a pretty straightforward way, like silk trim on a long flowing coat. It would have been nice to see this idea developed further.

As for eveningwear, a few of the outfits look right out of the Raf Simons at Dior playbook, pairing bustier mini dress tops with slim pants.

For the color palette this season it consisted of chic combos of black and navy with a couple of brick red and crisp white pieces thrown in for good measure.

If the show wasn’t one of Capasa strongest, it still had something to say, even if it said it very quietly.

- Jessica Michault