Costume National Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Milan
The prodigal son has returned to Italy. After showing his Costume National collection in Paris for 23 years, designer Ennio Capasa decided it was time to return to his homeland to once again present the modern urban style his house is now famous for.
His rock and roll aesthetic, which played particularly hard with the idea of the constructing elements of an outfit this season, was visually supported by the unfinished and cavernous show space the designer sussed out in one of Milan’s new building complexes.
“I constructed this collection by freely disassembling and reassembling patterns to give each piece a sense of ease,” said the designer in his show notes. And he wasn’t kidding. As this was a collection that felt very much like a work in progress.
Outfits, in the designers favorite shades of black and white with a bit of dayglow yellow and shimmering silver thrown in for good measure, came out in asymmetrical elements that looked as if they had been rather haphazardly, and I am sorry to say often unattractively, constructed onto the models bodies. Oddly placed pull straps often just hung off outfits. Shimmering see though organza cut in sporty tops came with a faux brushstroke of embroidery across the bosom. And the spliced and diced dresses, jackets and tops felt more like walking art projects then viable fashion alternatives.
So it will be Capasa’s beautifully cut ankle length pants that will see the designer though next season. Thankfully his fans should have a few tops, and jackets from some of the designer’s past collections that will pair with them perfectly.