"This is a very cinematic collection," explained Ennio Capasa in a preview before his Costume National show. "It's inspired by the lighting in the movies," he added.
Well, Capasa must love to watch black and white films because those two colors were the backbone of this collection – a line up the designer suggested has a film noir "sensual yet romantic" vibe to it. And that might be true but it was when the designer reinterpreted menswear suiting staples on his female models that the collection got some dramatic emotion going.
High on the list of masculine reinterpretations that sizzled were tops with exposed shoulders that came barely held to the body thanks to slivers of lapels. Also skirts with buttons up the middle that finished in two points to suggest a man's vest looked as if the models has slipped them on and pushed them down into makeshift minis as they made an early morning exit after a one night stand. There were also the statement-making trouser top hot pants with a prominent zipper and finally the more familiar sleeveless suit jackets that came paired with fitted cropped pants.
Those were the pieces that were ready for their sartorial close up.
Otherwise, the show was pretty straightforward, although the introduction of a head to toe blood red suit made for a surprise climatic moment.
Capasa should keep binge watching those classic flicks. They certainly helped bring to life this show.