Couture Time Out: Peter Dundas

From the grandeur of Palais Garnier and a whimsical fairytale of a bloom-dotted gown as she wafted down the runway, to the front row of Peter Dundas’ latest (not couture) eponymous collection in a vivid – equally wafting, but more bohemian – kaftan gown, model Anna Cleveland was getting the best of both worlds today as she took in the fifth offering from the designer who has been forging it alone since his departure from Roberto Cavalli back in 2016. It was a year ago that he launched his own brand here in Paris.


Peter Dundas D5 Spring/Summer 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.

Cropping up on the couture schedule, though not for couture reasons – in a similar vein to Miu Miu which staged its resort show at the weekend – Dundas’ aesthetic, however, isn’t necessarily all that much out of place. Sequins? Got em. Beads? Yep, those too. Flamboyance and drama? Tick and tick. Though this was far more rock ‘n’ roll and “I’m with the band” than perhaps the traditional world of couture is used to seeing with borderline whiffs of Balmain for built-up shoulder shapes and swathes of little dresses, thickly belted. 

It had all the sex appeal that he so made his own during his Pucci days with those shots of rock he picked up at Cavalli (he left the former for the latter) which amounted to something very Eighties in this fringed and adorned collection. The designer, throughout his collections at Pucci and Cavalli, often wandered between the Seventies and the Eighties as reference points.


Peter Dundas D5 Spring/Summer 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.

Flashes of neon pink – which we saw at Giambattista Valli beforehand – and tea dresses, also belted, added a twist to pieces which were certainly high octane, high voltage, but perhaps remained in too familiar territory.