The cozy and approachable collection that Damir Doma produced for the fall/winter 2015 season felt like a physical representation of the designer returning to his roots.
Everything in this collection exuded a sense of hardy handicraft design. Well-loved pieces like raw-seamed or hole-filled knitwear, textural bathrobe coats and faded prison striped suits were at once artisanal in nature and yet somehow precious in their journeyman silhouettes. These were workhorse designs. Backbone pieces that will again and again be reached for by their future owners. Both for their practically and their evergreen beauty.
As poetic as Doma was in his approach to the clothing, it was the little touched that pushed this collection to another level of understated sophistication. The feather light accents of minimalistic circle broaches and worn-smooth belt buckles, their organic lines crafted out of horn, as well as the faux jacket pockets formed from a few stitches of thread left to dangle at the ends, pointed to a designer who is a romantic at heart.
If there was a false note in this collection, it was the odd inclusion of a canary yellow semi-sheer knit top that left a male model's dark nipples apparent. It was incongruous and a distraction from the rest of this wholesome and sartorially-sustaining show.