Croatian designer Damir Doma turned in his nomad badge this spring/summer 2014 season. Trading it for something more clinical, precise and industrial in nature. It made for a nice change of pace, but one that still felt in keeping with Doma’s fundamental design aesthetic of pure, architectural pieces that envelope the body.
The first all white look set the tone. Just the topstitched cinching of a band of shirt fabric at the waist was enough to make the audience sit up and take notice. Outlining the human form is not the designer’s go to shape. But Doma quickly returned to more familiar territory with a series of voluminous coats, jackets and boxy shirts that he paired with equally easy shorts and pants.
Besides the bit of body hugging designs in the show- or that first look there were also high waisted pants cut taunt to the torso and a slim long sleeve collarless top - the big story of this collection was the graphic and textural introduction of a chevron motif. The transparent salt and pepper colored plastic garments were very interesting as was the laser cut, scale-like geometric effect the designer used on a blouson jacket or the raglan sleeves of a canvas coat. The idea of a smattering of black and white patchwork images onto the chest or sleeve of ensembles was a concept that has already made its mark on the runways of other designers in the past, but those standout chevron embellishments on the final few pieces felt entirely new and enticing.
Oh and one final shout out for a beautifully tailored black and white oversized tartan patterned suit jacket that was in equal degrees edgy and elegant.
Bring together all of these absorbing elements and that outcome was a strong collection from a designer who continues to rise in the menswear ranks.
- Jessica Michault