Damir Doma Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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In a season that has as one of its major trends the appropriation of men’s textiles and tailoring into a woman’s wardrobe, Damir Doma could have been sitting pretty. After all, he is a designer who got his start in menswear and has made a name for himself as someone who dresses women often in the same nomadic vein and silhouettes as his men.

But Doma did not sit back and set this collection on cruse control. Rather he pushed forward into the future where, looking at the predominantly androgynous designs in this show, men and women dressed in the same muted hued clothing in easy sporty silhouettes.

The ensembles, their waists, neckline and wrists often outfitted with elastic to give a bit of shape to the designs, came in high tech fabrics like polyamide, nylon and viscose. Doma deftly blended these with more traditional textiles such as silk and wool, of which an abstract houndstooth pattern was particularly appealing.

The boxy short jackets held away from the body thanks to a strip of leather inserted at the bottom looked fresh, and the tops that were designed with a scarf collar that wrapped the neck to drape down one side of the body was effortlessly chic. Paired with the designer’s great frame bags, the green chain link jewelry that looked to be oxidized metal and some of Doma’s famed loose fitting pants, would make for a winning combination.

But there were a few ideas in this collection that even the most self assured woman would have a hard time making work. The skirts that were cut with fabric in the back and wrapped to the front to finish with a panel of leather at the front were just plain unflattering. As for the metallic super thick-soled shoes, they will only have a life with the concrete catwalk set.

It would have been nice to see a bit more of the woman in this womenswear collection. One plum hued shift dress, with its torso wrapped in a leather bow, looked like it might be taking the show in that direction. But it was a one hit wonder. As it was, this collection was a tad too austere for its own good.

- Jessica Michault
 

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