Damir Doma is starting to shake things up at his signature brand. Until recently the designer has had a tendency towards Monk-like garb that always enveloped the wearer in a cocoon of fabric. However, this season he spiced things up a bit.
The collection moved away from the wanderlust nomadic style that fans of the brand are accustomed to seeing, to one filled with sporty urban sirens who strode with confidence down the catwalk on strong, yet sexy, heels.
“It’s very different. It’s my codes but I wanted it to be much more clear, more precise,” explained Doma before the show.
There was still a play with volume in the collection, with boxy Kimono-inspired jackets and cool wide skater flavored city shorts giving the show a sturdy starting point. But Doma also tried out some more fitted silhouettes. Dresses with obi-like leather belts that held skirts, with peek-a-boo holes at the hips, to the body and shift dresses cut in a patchwork collage of different fabrics both were rather daring for the designer. As where the updated Zoot suit pants with a “paper bag” ruffle detail at the waistband. “Sometimes fashion needs to be fun,” said the designer with a smile as he showed off those statement pants.
Maybe it is the opening of his first flagship store here in Paris or his new partnership with the eyewear brand Mykita, which produced some geeky cool retro looking spectacles worn during the show, but the designer looked confident with this collection.
So much so that on occasion he passed up on using his traditional natural fabrics for more technically sophisticated blends, such as polyamides for outerwear or bonded jerseys that gave a subtle stiffness to tops. A particular high of this new mélange of materials, was one cross front jacket created from a heavy cotton weave in military green, black leather inserts and gray sweatshirt sleeves.
- Jessica Michault