Damir Doma Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Paris
In the heart of Paris in a gutted out building in the throws of reconstruction, designer Damir Doma sent out a spring/summer 2014 show that was anything but incomplete. His fully formed collection had a freshness and modernity to it that reached deep and was rather engrossing.
It would be too simple to categorize this collection as fresh, because the designer used a lot of white and beige shades, or modern, seeing as he sprinkled in some outfits that featured a band or two of color in the designs. Although both those sartorial choices worked very well for Doma this season.
No, what was fresh and actually quite feminine was the way he was able to craft clothing out of an assortment of fabrics (cotton, wool, crepe) so that they worked seamlessly together without ever losing their own identity. The clean way a circle of an eyelet cotton embellished the side of a sleeveless dress that, when it turned, revealed another strip of the same material racing down the back was lovely. As was the way those holes appeared on pleated crepe panels on a flowing skirt so that the graphic effect was two folds--shear and opaque as well as patterned and solid.
Also original was the use of broad trench coat belt buckets to hold the fabric close on a single strap dress, or embellish the back of a crisscrossing top. The trench idea reappeared incorporated into deceptively simple pieces, that left a storm flap panel of fabric at the shoulders, with the lower back exposed. The wide trench belt synching the garment close to the body in a way that was an unexpected surprise from a designer known for his love of volume.
This was a crystal clear collection from Doma. One that showed him well and truly getting in touch with his feminine side.