This year, Damir Doma decided to get closer to his creative pipeline by moving his entire company to Italy. The designer also relocated to Milan, living just steps away from the empty garage space where he showed his first womenswear collection in the heart of the city – a commitment to his craft that points to an artist willing to take whatever steps are necessary to be able to bring his exacting sartorial visions to life.
“I came here to be in touch with the factories, with the pattern makers, and with the fabric development. And it is the first time that I feel that I really achieve what I wanted to do,” said the designer in a preview of his collection.
Doma, who is known for his artisanal earthy androgynous designs, stayed true to form on Sunday night. A choice that makes him stand out in a city full of designers who are known for producing more commercial and easily definable fare.
However, those who have followed Doma’s career from the beginning could spot some subtle changes in this collection. First and foremost, the blue hue of the clothing was a new cooler direction for the designer. His love of soft tailoring and draping had more intention in their execution, particularly in the way he wrapped and gathered the fabric about the body. And the introduction of more transparent fabrics finished off with textural fil coupé felt fresh.
This show was another understated and intellectual offering from Doma. Its quiet grace easily transcended the barren garage in which it first saw the light of day.