Denim and the Rules for Second Collections: Catching Up with Giovanni Bedin

Hailing from a family of tailors, having studied at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and having been head designer at the 2010-revived House of Worth, Giovanni Bedin’s couture credentials speak for themselves. He’s also worked with Karl Lagerfeld and Thierry Mugler. But now he’s gone it alone, this season his second eponymous couture collection – and a notable highlight for its fresh and youthful appeal. 

Giovanni Bedin Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2018 presentation in Paris. Photo: Courtesy of PR. 

“It’s about three different moments of the day. I love rules, so that’s what we have here; but I also love to break them – and that’s also what we have here,” he explained as an army of girls in the lightest of pink and blue and denim little dresses stood en masse and the sun poured in. “Denim is for daywear, pleated origami is for cocktail, and crystal is for evening,” he continued. 

It was the former mention of denim that came as something of a surprise. Though it shouldn’t, as Bedin pointed out. “I love very rough fabric and it depends on the number of hours for me. I don’t like rich fabric; I love to create my own textures and fabrics, and it’s a big challenge to start from a simple humble fabric. I find it very modern.” And that really was the buzzword to note here. Anyone walking in would have any dated notions of couture knocked out of their system – yet, if they wanted that too, Bedin could, of course, lower a hemline or the like because that’s what its customisable qualities come down to. But these were delicious as they were. Modern, exactly.

Giovanni Bedin Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2018 presentation in Paris. Photo: Courtesy of PR. 

“Chanel used to do cotton dresses when silk was too expensive during the war and I think it’s very modern,” he elaborated of the point. He, too, using it as the base for all styles on show. 

Potentially the reason he’s been able to reach this successful conclusion (his debut was stellar, too) is because it’s him and not the weight of a heritage house – the original couture house at that – upon his shoulders. Which is not to say Bedin didn’t do a good job at Worth. It’s more that resurrected houses should often sleep when they’ve been put to bed. 

“I’m very happy. I’ve had the chance to do it, so I’m very happy,” he beamed.