The Derek Lam woman is classy, cultured and a little different. How perfect then that the theme tune to I Am Love, the Oscar nominated Italian film starring Tilda Swinton should soundtrack Lam’s entire show. As the chimes of John Adams’ orchestral theme filled the venue, all of the Jil Sander outfits, designed by Raf Simons and worn by Swinton who played the wife of a rich, Milanese cloth manufacturer, ran through my mind. As did the beautifully shot opening scene where the camera takes in Milan, capital of Italian fashion, almost entirely disguised by snow.
Swinton’s wardrobe in this thoughtfully shot film spoke an entire language of its own, as it would for a woman of her characters standing. Lam’s collection did so too. It was an American take on European minimalism, which is to say that the design lines were clean and unfussy but a little warmer, possessing a little razzle dazzle with a dash of gold in a top here or a large, bold (almost 3D) wool tweed print there. It works, Lam’s clothing has an identity and his fans should be delighted with practically every look especially the grey marl wool dress (look 25) and the winter twin set of dress and overcoat (look 26). The evening gowns continued this line of thought, the high waisted chiffon numbers with deep pockets and leather upper body being the edgiest of the finale. The only element that felt out of place was perhaps the absense of older models as this collection is clearly for women but hey, small details...
Soundtrack: The Chairman Dances from the soundtrack to I Am Love by John Adams
On February 16 Derek Lam will be launching a diffusion line on ebay, the first of its kind www.dereklam.ebay.com