It was back to their old tricks for Devastée’s Ophélie Klere and François Alary, and in this instance, it’s just as good as their new ones. “Je ne décroche jamais,” meaning in French “I never pick up (the phone)” or “I never hang up my boots” depending on the context, is perhaps the message that most exemplifies not only Alary’s tongue-in-cheek superstition about incoming calls, but also a roundabout comment about the dizzying speed of fashion’s cycles. “For us designers, the only way to go faster is to drop out the cycle completely,” he said. “Inspiration no longer comes from the plethora of images available out there in magazines, Tumblr and whatnot; it comes from within oneself.”
Indeed, this wasn’t so much an exercise in design, inspirations or trend as it was fitting the Devastée fan’s bill. For sure, the elegance of last season was a little less palpable, given the more youthful twist of its 1960s inspiration, but the elegance of shiny jacquard cut into a blazer is balanced out by the black-on-black texture of a sportier raglan sweater; a lady-like double-breasted jacket features a white collar and buttons, but so does its elongated and slightly oversized teddy counterpart. While those who were lauding last season’s change of tack may disagree, this will play right into the hands of those who love the brand – Devastée have something of a cult following in Japan, if not in their homeland.
As summed up by Régis Pennel, founder of hit e-tailer L’Exception, “what I find interesting is the continuity in [Devastée]. Violent creative upheavals is what kills most brands; to see this need to create a coherent universe, a recipe for lasting success already applied by designers such as Dries van Noten, is interesting in a younger brand.” Staying true to your brand is for sure a trend that everyone wants to get behind this fall.