Prada’s Pirates: If only taking to the high seas could be like this. It was one of those Prada collections that had us from the first look – a corset worn on the outside; a jaunty sailor hat perched atop the head; harlequin tights; bejewelled booties; and layers of layers of both meaning (a comment on the facets of a woman’s personality) and clothes. In reality, the first two fashion mentions there will be left at home next season (reluctantly, one should add), but there was plenty left once those are removed that made this modern-day pirate parade both a hugely covetable and key collection for the season ahead. Who’ll be spotted stepping out in it first? Now that’s the question.
Prada Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Moschino’s Burning Ball Gowns: Jeremy Scott knows how to put on a show, a real show. He burnt down the proverbial fashion house this time round, complete with burning ball gowns, their splaying skirts steaming, their sequins singed – even Anna Cleveland struggled to put out the fire buried beneath hers. Bad cop biker jackets and prom dresses came in the plenty as the party got wilder – the crescendo of which was the chandelier dress, as though Beauty & The Beast’s Lumiere had come to life, really, and decided Moschino would be his first “real-life” stop. It was a spectacle alright – going head-to-head with Dolce & Gabbana when it came to being best in show.
Moschino Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Dolce & Gabbana’s Princess Parade: We’re used to seeing a Dolce collection take its reference points from geographical locations – the boys take their blend of Italy on a seasonal tour of the world and transpose what they find there into their Dolce & Gabbana language. Not quite so this time. There are no maps to the world of imagination – princess tales and fairy dreams made for their Cinderella port of call this time. It was surely every young girl’s dream come true. Just beware of turning into a pumpkin come autumn/winter – there might not be washing instructions for that.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
The Gucci Effect: There’s simply no getting away from it. What is it exactly? It’s a blend of romance and bohemia, costume dressing, magpie styling and vintage nods. It’s a return to personality first, eclectic accents, wispy-wafty dresses blemished with shine, Margot Tennenbaum coats, embroidered motifs, exotic souvenir embroideries; and everyone is in one way or another finding their own way to interpret this new (or three-seasons-old) Milan mood. The third time is a charm, but what about the fourth?
Gucci Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
Nothing Compares at Etro: While the Nineties has been the dialogue of designers for the last few seasons (we’ve been wallowing for a good couple of years now to be exact), Etro decided finally to tune in this season, plugging in its beanie-loving sensibilities and slip dresses, oversized slouchy jumpers and bikers (the daisy-smothered numbers were especially great) into its traditional lineup of folksy numbers. The thing that resonated most, however, was the soundtrack: Sinéad O’Connor’s “Nothing Compares 2 U,” which the whole audience was singing along to, whether they noticed or not – their mouths uttering “oooooo” as the finale took hold. Moment.
Etro Fall.Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Iceberg’s Club Kids: He only joined the house last season but Arthur Arbesser has quickly worked out how to make Iceberg relevant and cool again, plundering its heyday archive and bringing it back to life at a time when it all feels so right and on point now. Slogans and logos? Yep, they work. Bold color combinations? It feels like the millennium all over again. Sharp knitwear? Exactly what the brand was built upon. And it helps that the fashion press can’t stop raving about how nice Arbesser is. Iceberg’s surprise renaissance is being loved by all.
Iceberg Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Versace’s Vixens: A high-voltage show that rode the waves of athleisurewear and sexed it up, Versace enlisted Gigi, Kendall, Jourdan and Karlie to smoulder their way around the huge snail-circle circuit of a catwalk. It was like a Versace galaxy as girls orbited in svelte silhouettes and serious tailoring, their hair held in place by hippy-sports headbands. You couldn’t help but be in awe.
VIDEO | VERSACE READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 MILAN
VIDEO | VERSACE READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 MILANPosted by Nowfashion.com on Saturday, February 27, 2016
Jil Sander’s Back On Track: It’s a given that inheriting a house with heritage, and especially as back-and-forth and in-out a one as Jil Sander, is a tricky task. It takes time for any designer to find their feet and that can also be hard to do when there is a framework to fulfill. But finally it felt like Rodolfo Paglialunga, who stepped into the creative director shoes following Sander’s own departure from the label for the third time, had got the balance right – and married his Vionnet days (he was formerly its creative director, and has also been the designer director at Prada) with that restrained sensibility we’ve come to know so well from the brand. There were some looks that worked better than others, naturally, but the opening series of coats and later twisted and draped shirt numbers proved to hit the right notes.
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Tights Are Back: It’s been a while since fancy tights were a thing. They’ve been dormant in one’s drawer for some years now, but get ready to resurrect them: Prada did Harlequin numbers (and we know where Prada goes, others follow) and No 21 did beautiful bejeweled sheer styles, which were really their own item of clothing so delicate and beautiful as they came.
N°21 Fall/Winter 2016 ready-to-wear show, Milan (Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Marni’s Magic: Where fairy tales in fashion can so easily become like literal costume drama interpretations, there’s always something so very stoic and sharp about the way Marni enables that idea to play out. Capes were the mainstay of this collection with emphasis on the back throughout – through ruffled collars holding in place elaborate ribbons that trailed behind, of what seemed like back-to-front silhouettes. Ponchos, bell sleeves, capes, stoles; and then all incarnated in a Harlequin color palette that, accompanied by such inflated sleeve shapes, spoke of the Eighties. There were a couple of beautiful jackets, smothered in pailettes and shine, towards the end – it was an outerwear winner of a show.
VIDEO | MARNI READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 MILAN
VIDEO | MARNI READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 MILANPosted by Nowfashion.com on Sunday, February 28, 2016
The Rest In Digest: Sportmax and Stella Jean went on something of a world tour – the latter though distracting somewhat from the clothes themselves with a live choir. Good idea in theory, but in reality the distraction proved a little too distracting – save to say ponchos were in the plenty, naturally. Zip details for inflated puffas – of which there have been a good few in Milan (MSGM and Iceberg) – featured in Sportmax, which took its inspiration from Marrakech and a mix of urban and military nuances. Fausto Puglisi combined cowboy boots, big bombers and buckles on everything with slouchy cardigans, skater skirts and cool palm embroideries. Beanies completed an urban cowgirl mash-up.