Dior: Five Haute Couture Moments We Loved

On the second day of Paris Haute Couture, Maria Grazia Chiuri revealed her Fall/Winter 2018-19 collection for Christian Dior. And, once again, she clearly addressed women empowerment throughout her collection. In fact, ever since she revealed her now famous "We should all be feminist" t-shirts on the runway during her Spring/Summer 2017 Haute Couture outing, her feminist vision of fashion and Couture has become her leitmotiv. This time around, Chiuri questioned how Couture, in the process, can become a psychological place of female resistance, how it can become "a kind of ideological guerrilla that explodes on the frontiers of entrenched traditions," as the designer put it herself. On paper, it reads like a revolutionary statement. The reality, however, is more subtle: Chiuri doesn't break the rules, she dissects them with a critical eye and reinterprets them with her very own signature style – for instance, the iconic Bar jacket was reinterpreted with batwing sleeves this season. We've compiled five memorable runway show moments that embody Chiuri's latest collection for Dior. 

 


Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


Plissé, please!

Evening dresses came with a dazzling mix of layering and pleating that were paired with simple bustier tops, therewith creating subtle sculptural shapes. Voluminous and airy pleats are something Chiuri already excelled in when she collaborated with Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino – and at Dior, she takes them to the next level. A midnight blue double-pleat organza ensemble and a dusty pink organza ball gown with vaporous sleeves, horizontal pleats, and a millefeuille pleated skirt were to die for! 



Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


Nude is the new black  

Nude tones have already conquered the world of beauty and cosmetics, and now they're taking our (Haute Couture) wardrobe by storm. At Dior, they come in organza and soft silk and are interacting with a powdery palette of brick red, mint green, soft pink, and orange. But nude tones were even more powerful – and empowering – when worn without any other colorway. The sand pink pencil dress with an open neckline that we could spot at the beginning of the show, as well as the sheer, dusty pink tulle evening dress that was delicately embroidered in a network of glass beads set the tone: less is always more. 



Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


Trompe-l'oeil camouflage 

This collection had a certain military flair to it, not only because the silhouettes were reminiscent of the 1940s, but because the color palette – soft pastel greens – of certain looks and the subtle sobriety – and dare we say, austerity – of certain garment shapes (think a military-inspired mint green skirt suite with tucked shoulders and batwing sleeves) were reflecting Chiuri's guiding thread of empowerment and resistance. Our favorite interpretation of the "military" trend this season was the "forest intarsia" cashmere coat that was way inspired by Gobelins tapestry. 

 


Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


The béret is back (once again!) 

Needless to say, the béret has always been a symbol of resistance (hello, Che Guevara!) and a signature of the empowered woman in pop culture. Last year in March, Maria Grazia Chiuri officially made the béret a thing again when all of the Dior models wore leather bérets, in addition to pop-star Rihanna, who was sporting one front row. This time around, the béret was more sleek than ever and almost cut like a flat cap. The odd béret is here to stay!



Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.


Flower garden 

Bucolic surface designs made for a true eye-catcher at this Fall/Winter 2018-19 collection of Christian Dior. While multi-colored "Mille-Fleurs" tapestry embroideries built a guiding thread throughout the collection, our favorite take of painterly flowers remains a dusky pink bustier dress which was embroidered with a multitude of black-edged organza flowers.