Dior Goes Green

After feminism, Dior goes into sustainability. This is the message behind its last prêt-à-porter show, the presentation of which coincides with the Global Climate Strike part of the Global Week for Future from 20th-27th September, as a reaction to the United Nations Climate Action Summit that took place on September 23rd in New York. This big event is related to the worldwide action part of the school strike for climate movement, inspired by Swedish climate activist Greta Thunberg. So, it seems that the mega brand is checking all the boxes to show their involvement in green matters.

Starting from the inspiration of the collection, Christian Dior’s sister Catherine and her passion for flowers as a horticulturist, to the location, the Longchamp racecourse in Paris with the set up conceived by Coloco, the collective of botanists, architects, biologists, and landscapers, that works on emphasizing awareness of people to use the world as their own garden with us as our own gardeners. The 164 trees used for the staging will be replanted in four locations around Paris.

“I keep questioning myself which is the role of a creative mind in this complex situation,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director. “I’m honest and I'm not afraid to say that, so far, I don’t have an answer to this. But as an active person, I don’t want to design just clothes inspired by gardening and flowers, and ignoring the rest; so, I take my risks using my job to inspire other minds. I strongly believe in the long-term project, so what I’m personally doing is trying to grow awareness to all the people I work with from my team to the supply chain. I’m convinced that this makes more sense than doing just a sustainable t-shirt for market purposes, but so far timelessness and sustainability is a juxtaposition that is not very easy to manage.” Chiuri’s personal honesty, passion, and devotion are admirable, but she also speaks as a designer of Dior that recently launched another capsule collection, “30 Montaigne,” made with all the essentials pieces from the heritage of the Maison and adding one more to the already existing collections. This really clashes with overproduction, one of the big issues of the fashion industry. Why launch another collection, even if made with timeless pieces, added to the other Dior ones? Setting this path is not effortless, so it takes times and difficult decisions, but a big company is not a 16-year-old Swedish girl to whom you could forgive the faux pas due to her inexperience.

A postapocalyptic world populated by survived clans of different styles were the protagonists of the Marine Serre collection that sounded like an admonishment to the audience that the world is going to end soon. She considers it gone already, so she showed 5 gangs of survivors with differing styles. The first looked like a priest risen from the petrol flood, all wearing black with clean shapes of sculptured dresses and embossed leather. The desert community came after with their elaborated version of the tailoring and the scuba-djellaba dress. The old establishment is third clan; they made their clothing with what they found as waste from the previous existence: crochet tablecloths, bed sheets, curtains turned into tops and dresses; they lost their social position, but they aim to keep their aesthetic. Then the fourth clan decided to redo their executive suits with towels symbolizing the water rising and seeping everywhere. This led to a hybridization of clothing and human beings, and the final clan participated as amphibians with covered faces and printed dresses. The printed bodysuits and apparel the French designer made into a signature item became undoubtedly something that immediately connoted her style. But when you look at the real design, she stuck into her cliché silhouettes that need to move to the next step.

In reverse Christelle Kocher at Koché showed a beautiful collection, keeping her DNA very visible but evolving season by season into a more intellectual side. This one is a step forward for the craftsmanship, cutting, and embroidering. Beautiful hand-decorated evening dresses with hundreds of crystals gave them a Thirties flair. “I think that knowledge is very important; we are living in an era of excess, everything is quick and superficial,” explained the designer backstage. “So, I decided to show in a library to illustrate how books are important. I started to work when I was 14, so they gave me everything.”

Under the Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent proposed a stunning open air, all-black set up with dozens of whirling lights pointed to the sky. Anthony Vaccarello, Creative Director of the French Maison, is finally finding his own way delivering a beautiful collection (though a bit repetitive) full of Saint Laurent with a pinch of his own touch, but well balanced. “I wanted to push toward something heavy with gold and decoration,” said the designer backstage. “I exaggerated the heritage Russian Collection and made it even more rich. Then the smoking was the other starting point. I believe that the tuxedo belongs to us, so I wanted to reinterpret it in different ways as a statement of our heritage. Then my personal touches were the shorts in the beginning of the show.” Finally, Vaccarello found his balance in the Maison. The Hedi Slimane shadow is gone and, for womenswear, he found his distinguishing feature. What’s more, he is working on creating collections that are instant classics and timeless right away. This is a smart, modern approach. “I started to think beyond properly seasonal collections, and, working on the layers, I began to consider something beyond the trend,” he explained. “I want that my pieces will be always desirable and last forever.” And this could be also very sustainable in terms of production, I would add.

 

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
A Verdict on Digital Fashion Week
By Fabio Ciquera
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations,...
By Fabio Ciquera
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations, online happenings and symposia. One cannot accuse luxury houses to lack inventiveness, and there is a genuine appreciation for the quick turnaround in moving everything online. From Loewe to Prada and...
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations, online happenings and symposia. One cannot accuse luxury houses to lack inventiveness, and there is a genuine appreciation for the quick turnaround in moving everything online. From Loewe to Prada and Dior, among the many names, the creative solutions have been exciting to watch. This new reality...
Revival LDN: The Upcycled Fashion Brand Aiming At Helping the Environment
By Alice Ierace
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through...
By Alice Ierace
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through research and proposals, have tried to lessen the fashion industry’s huge impact on the environment. However, despite the efforts, many are still the fast-fashion brands ignoring the issue. The problem is...
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through research and proposals, have tried to lessen the fashion industry’s huge impact on the environment. However, despite the efforts, many are still the fast-fashion brands ignoring the issue. The problem is that, no matter how sustainable they deem they are, we are still living in a fast-paced environment...
Reflections on Life post Lockdown at MFW
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021...
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections with an informal gathering at Milan’s iconic Four Seasons Hotel. “We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s...
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections with an informal gathering at Milan’s iconic Four Seasons Hotel. “We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s Montenapoleone district. We want to highlight that we are a family, that Etro is a family living in a world...
White Mountaineering Brings Back BLK Line
By Elisa Carassai
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese...
By Elisa Carassai
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese designer Yosuke Aizawa. This season, the designer not only presented an exclusive film directed by Daito Manabe from the Rhizomatiks, but he also decided to relaunch his original BLK line. Launched in 2009,...
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese designer Yosuke Aizawa. This season, the designer not only presented an exclusive film directed by Daito Manabe from the Rhizomatiks, but he also decided to relaunch his original BLK line. Launched in 2009, White Mountaineering’s BLK Line proposed a new feel to outdoor wear with high-spec textiles and...
Digital Meets Local at Sunnei
By Elisa Carassai
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo were supposed to move in their newly-bought building, Casa Sunnei. Not being able to move in, and stuck quarantining home, the duo started reflecting on what they could do to move forward, at a slower...
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo were supposed to move in their newly-bought building, Casa Sunnei. Not being able to move in, and stuck quarantining home, the duo started reflecting on what they could do to move forward, at a slower pace.  “During the lockdown, I realized we were moving at a pace that was too fast - we were...
A Play of Poetics at MFW
By Elisa Carassai
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM, with a film celebrating the new Milanese generation of young creatives, as well as the joy of life post-lockdown. Inspired by writer Isabella Santacroce’s book Fluo: Storie di...
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM, with a film celebrating the new Milanese generation of young creatives, as well as the joy of life post-lockdown. Inspired by writer Isabella Santacroce’s book Fluo: Storie di Giovani a Riccione (“Fluo: Stories of Young People in Riccione”) – who also happens to be from...
Purity and Tradition Intertwine at MFW
By Alice Ierace
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the...
By Alice Ierace
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three...
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three decades of unforgettable shows.Of course, a simple presentation wasn’t in the plan – it needed that...
Auralee’s Imaginary Journey Through Time
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer...
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal...
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal styling. Its aim? A full exploration into the development of their own fabrics. By taking inspiration...