Dior Homme Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

Designer Kris Van Assche turned to a very powerful symbol to act as the emblem for his fall/winter 2013 show.  He embellished a number of second skin long sleeve shirts and slim jackets with the outline of a triangle surrounded by a circle. At first glance some might have mistaken this sign as a modern representation of the A for anarchy. But anyone at the show would argue that there was very little that was rebellious about this minimalistic, almost clinical collection.
 
A bit of Google research reveals that the Illuminati sign has come to represent everything from “the all seeing eye” and a “symbol for creation” to one of protection to ward off evil. The Alcoholics Anonymous support group has even adopted it for its organization.
 
But let’s put aside the question of what Van Assche was attempting to say with the influential emblem and focus a bit on what the rest of his collection was trying to transmit.  First and foremost, unlike most of the other menswear shows so far, the designer is not interested in bulking-up with outsized outerwear or forgiving suit shapes. His was a form fitted show where outerwear practically blended together with the equally sharp and lean suit. He even went as far as to accentuate the model’s natural waistlines with sliver clip belt buckles woven into the garments, giving them a slight hourglass silhouette.
 
Those belt buckets also showed up snapping a shirt collar closed (like a futuristic take on a clerical collar) or adorning classic oxford footwear. Add to this the use of hidden zipper closures on everything from blazers to blouson jackets worn by stern looking models with close-cropped hair and this collection had a quasi uniform style.  In fact, almost every bicolored suit, patent leather coat, and crisp trench would look right at home in a remake of the sci-fi film Logan’s Run.

- Jessica Michault

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