Dior Homme Menswear Fall Winter 2014 Paris

Designer Kris Van Assche must have had a fantastic and revitalizing holiday break, because both his signature line and the collection he showed for Dior Homme on Saturday were highlights in his sartorial body of work.

At Dior, Van Assche took on the eternal menswear dilemma of how to bridge suiting and streetwear. He came up with quite a few interesting and original propositions for the brand’s fall/winter 2014 collection. After gallantly leaving a nosegay of fragrant muguet flowers on the seat of each guest of his show, including Kendrick Lamar, Karlie Kloss and Will Smith, the designer opened his collection with some deftly tailored pinstripe suits. Each of them topped off with a boutonniere of silver muguet.

And then he progressively added some streetwise edge to his polished pieces. First, it was just a single thicker line in the pinstripe fabric, then the suits came dusted with polka dots or they were cobbled together from pinstripe fabrics with different spacing between the lines for an oddly appealing dissonant design.

This evolved into the  addition of multiple gusset pockets on vests and coats which brought to mind tactical gear and gave the collection an instant urban vibe. As did the introduction of the washed blue denim pieces like a roomy duffle coat or a classic shearling collared jacket.

Towards the end of the show, Van Assche got even more daring. Introducing voluminous outerwear as well as suits and sweaters embellished by whorls of abstract flowers. And for the very bold he proposed pieces embroidered with the show’s leitmotif muguet blooms.

Traditionally, offering muguet is meant to be a token of luck and prosperity. With this collection fortune has shined on Van Assche and he will certainly count himself lucky when he hears all the Dior Homme tills ringing up the sales next season.

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