There’s something quite measured in the way that Maria Grazia Chiuri approaches the modern Dior woman. This season’s outing, her second ready-to-wear collection, but third in total for the house (couture back in January), seemed to combine a street sophistication. So hoods were plentiful but reincarnated in a demi-riff on the Bar jacket, as a new cape ideal. There was an overall utility feel, yet it was peppered with Chiuri’s signature femininity, and of course Dior’s elegance. And it was all – all – in navy blue. [CONTINUE READING...]
Chiuri designed a range of sumptuous cocktail numbers, evening dresses, capes and coats; but also added bomber jackets, loose pants and shirts designed in a decisive urban spirit. This eclectic mix-and-match symbolized the current will of luxury brands to add streetwear aesthetics and elements to their brand's style inventory – a trend where both regal and proletarian codes collide, so what better color than blue to express this statement? [CONTINUE READING...]
In her second ready-to-wear collection for the house of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrated one of Monsieur Dior's favourite shades with a collection full of street sophistication. [CONTINUE READING...]
Picasso. Georges Braque. Nina Simone. The Diorama of ‘51. Le femme en guerre. The images on the moodboard behind the scenes cleared up the fog that clouded the entrance to the show. Explaining the silhouettes that looked as if they’d come in from the night, carrying with them the reflections of a starry sky. Because Dior has entered its blue period or, in a way, it’s returned to it. “We were struck by a quote from Christian Dior in the Dictionary of Fashion that said, blue is the only colour that has the same quality as black.” Maria Grazia Chiuri explained to MFF, the creative director of womenswear at the LVMH owned house, “As I feel like I’m from the black generation, I thought I’d found a similar colour. Blue opens an infinite number of worlds such as the idea of the uniform.” From the military kind to workwear such as jeans. In a mix between couture craftsmanship and the unexpected lightness of taffeta that almost resembles a technical fabric. It’s a super French twist, with little leather berets to complete the look. Like Eva Green in the The Dreamers and the Paris of warm hues. A little bit preppy, a little bit rebellious. Boots with metal closures, thigh high boots. A bandolier that looks dangerous from the front but reveals one of the house’s most iconic bags hidden behind the back of the model. Trench coats with pleats crafted by hand, a reference to the creations in the archive from 1951. These alternate with the iconic Bar jacket and a sporty, everyday mood, from cloaks with an eye-catching logo print to the historic Chevrier that looks like a modern raincoat. All worn with selvedge style denim, sporting the celebrated visible seams or workwear overalls that democratize the look. Lightening the severity of architectural sleeves. Blue is the new black. Without forgetting the checks and oversize white shirts, precious transparencies that lengthen lines in the finale. From draped gowns, dressed down with embroidered knits and logoed underwear that has become a modern symbol of the house. Setting hearts racing, like the heart shaped cut out on the back of the heels.
By Stefano Roncato - MFF Magazine for Fashion