Dirk Bikkembergs Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Milan
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The challenge that Hamish Morrow has set for himself this season is how to take a line built on sportswear and make it elegant. The Dirk Bikkembergs brand, for which Morrow is the menswear designer, had built a name for itself as the place to go for the super fit sportsman who likes his clothing to fit his sculpted form. And those men will not feel alienated by Morrow’s sophomore collection for the label. The second skin and semi-sheer styles still showed up on the catwalk but they were not what gave this show its substance. What was more interesting was how the designer brought an element of tailoring and construction to the casualwear. The first exit in the line up is a perfect example. It used zippers on the sleeves that, when left half open, gave an added volume to the blouson jacket, moving it from a fitted shape to a muscular one. Interesting too was the way the designer used sportswear touches, like laser cut seam sealing on traditional suiting fabrics or added a light membrane of a fabric in a contrasting color as a top coat to a jacket. “This season I really want to show where the brand is heading,” said Morrow before the show. That new direction seems to be one of contrasts. Where bright colors do battle with bold prints and comfort has made room for a touch of elegance. It looks like sartorial sportswear might just be the wave of the future.

-Jessica Michault
 

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