Diversity Flows in São Paulo

São Paulo Fashion Week’s 48th edition came to an end last Friday and will be remembered as a turning point for the meaning of diversity in fashion. Inclusion – and its multiple facets – was a central theme for designers as a response to the current government scrutiny towards the LGBT+ community.


Breaking down gender rules was a fundamental pillar in the castings and, in many of the shows, identifying the sex of the models was ambiguous. Trans model Sam Porto – who walked the runway at the Cavalera show shirtless, showing-off his new manly body shape, a scar from his recent mastectomy and the protest RESPECT TRANS on his chest – was the scene that no one will forget this season.


João Pimenta, a designer specialized in men's tailoring, was inspired by lesbian women and female masculinity. Lucas Leão, 27, presented a collection with futuristic digital prints – an exceptional out-of-this-world mood – featuring models of different genres. It really didn't matter if they were women or men. They connected through style and attitude, blurring the lines between male and female characteristics.  


The same genderless feeling was palpable in the Beira show, but with calm and restraint, amid a monochromatic collection of smart ensembles. This socially conscious movement is more about attitude than it is about clothes. It felt really good to see the kids being themselves and feeling great about it. Body positivity and transgenerational beauty was also everywhere, filling the catwalk with women of different sizes and ages, in shows such as Fernanda Yamamoto and Free Free, both of which made the audience cry.


SPFW also addressed inclusion of the Afro-Brazilian community in the local system. Newcomer Isaac Silva presented a collection celebrating Afro-Brazilian religions and his African ancestry. Inclusivity was primal and expressed through Silva’s exclusively black model casting. Before this edition of São Paulo Fashion Week, when we talked about diversity in Brazilian fashion, it was mostly regarding the lack of African-Brazilian models on the runways. In this edition, the top five models were all afro descendants. Nayara Oliveira, Mari Calazan, Isadora Oliveira, Elle Maciel, and Raynara Negrine are the new faces of Brazilian fashion.


Even if it is still considered to be the most important fashion event in South America, SPFW isn’t what it used to be. And that’s just fine. Where once supermodel Gisele walked down the runway under the eye of famed critics such as Suzy Menkes, now the scene is more local; models and designers are young, and the whole scene is less international and festive. In other words, Brazil’s fashion scene is still thriving, and designers are constantly evolving, even if SPFW’s impact is now on a more local level. Back in the early 2000s when Gisele was strutting down the runway, the collections were a big collage of what was shown in Milan and Paris during the previous season. This new isolation – due to the economical and political crises – gave designers an avenue to be more creative, original, and to create fashion that caters to local needs. Now, that might be the best thing that emerged from this crisis. Brazilian designers seem to be more in sync with who they really are: they are focused on making significant impacts on their own culture and society, instead of mimicking international brands with the hope of stepping inside the global fashion circuit.


In São Paulo, local expression becomes precious. At a time when a giant like Brazil makes a fashion event for its own people and not for international press, it is rewarding to see an evolution in terms of ideas, materials, and shapes but also models, designers, and behaviour. Brazilians are looking within and using fashion as a tool to rise again, embracing the young generation and giving them a place to belong. Now, that's a statement we won't forget.

 

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Armani keeps surprising
By Gianluca Cantaro
“Today, you can see Giorgio Armani’s iconic style almost everywhere. I’m very happy and proud...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
“Today, you can see Giorgio Armani’s iconic style almost everywhere. I’m very happy and proud that my aesthetic has become part of everyone’s lifestyle, but I feel that the real duty for a designer like me is to keep surprising the audience and the customers with something new and exciting that...
“Today, you can see Giorgio Armani’s iconic style almost everywhere. I’m very happy and proud that my aesthetic has become part of everyone’s lifestyle, but I feel that the real duty for a designer like me is to keep surprising the audience and the customers with something new and exciting that you would never expect,” stated the designer at the press conference before his pre-Fall 2020/21 show...
Inside Chanel’s Eco Investment
By Sofia Celeste
Medford, Massachusetts--A fifteen minute Uber ride north of Boston, past food chains like Dunkin’...
By Sofia Celeste
Medford, Massachusetts--A fifteen minute Uber ride north of Boston, past food chains like Dunkin’ Donuts, tucked into a suburb about 3,500 miles away from the Paris runways, lies a relatively unknown startup that recently received an investment from Chanel, one of the most famous and notoriously...
Medford, Massachusetts--A fifteen minute Uber ride north of Boston, past food chains like Dunkin’ Donuts, tucked into a suburb about 3,500 miles away from the Paris runways, lies a relatively unknown startup that recently received an investment from Chanel, one of the most famous and notoriously secretive luxury goods makers in the world.Evolved by Nature’s headquarters, an office like any...
These Are the Most Expensive Streets in the World
By Jessica Bumpus
According to a new report by the property consultancy Cushman & Wakefield, New Bond Street is the...
By Jessica Bumpus
According to a new report by the property consultancy Cushman & Wakefield, New Bond Street is the most expensive street in Europe when it comes to retail rents. It is also the third most expensive globally.Rent is reportedly $1,714 (£1,335) per square foot, increasing by 2.3 per cent in the last...
According to a new report by the property consultancy Cushman & Wakefield, New Bond Street is the most expensive street in Europe when it comes to retail rents. It is also the third most expensive globally.Rent is reportedly $1,714 (£1,335) per square foot, increasing by 2.3 per cent in the last 12 months. The renowned London street is home to a prestigious selection of global luxury flagship...
Exploring Femininity’s Many Facets with Nensi Dojaka
By Jessica Bumpus
“For me, they are like short evening dresses,” said Nensi Dojaka of her collage-cut-and-paste...
By Jessica Bumpus
“For me, they are like short evening dresses,” said Nensi Dojaka of her collage-cut-and-paste debut collection, which takes its cues from lingerie. The Albanian designer had first studied the category at London College of Fashion before embarking on her MA at Central Saint Martins from which her...
“For me, they are like short evening dresses,” said Nensi Dojaka of her collage-cut-and-paste debut collection, which takes its cues from lingerie. The Albanian designer had first studied the category at London College of Fashion before embarking on her MA at Central Saint Martins from which her final collection has now become a fully-fledged brand. One that made quite the impact during London...
Closing the Gender Gap
By Sofia Celeste
“If women entrepreneurs participated equally in the economy, the GDP would go up by $5 trillion....
By Sofia Celeste
By Sofia Celeste
“If women entrepreneurs participated equally in the economy, the GDP would go up by $5 trillion. That is good for business; that is good for our economy, and that’s common sense,” said designer Tori Burch in her acceptance speech at the 2019 Glamour Woman of the Year awards on Monday.Burch, who...
“If women entrepreneurs participated equally in the economy, the GDP would go up by $5 trillion. That is good for business; that is good for our economy, and that’s common sense,” said designer Tori Burch in her acceptance speech at the 2019 Glamour Woman of the Year awards on Monday.Burch, who recently launched Embrace Ambition, an image series that shines a spotlight on the ways women are...
Shop Till You Digitally Drop
By NOWFASHION
‘Tis the season to be (online) shopping: the upcoming holiday season is responsible for as much...
By NOWFASHION
‘Tis the season to be (online) shopping: the upcoming holiday season is responsible for as much as 30 percent of a retailer’s sales for the year, and, according to official data published by McKinsey & Co., this percentage is likely to rise.A recent retail report published by the company shows...
‘Tis the season to be (online) shopping: the upcoming holiday season is responsible for as much as 30 percent of a retailer’s sales for the year, and, according to official data published by McKinsey & Co., this percentage is likely to rise.A recent retail report published by the company shows almost a third of shoppers are expected to spend more this year than last – with digital-savvy...
No Lonely Hearts on Alibaba's Singles' Day
By Sofia Celeste
A day that will never be forgotten, 11/11, which also marks the November 11th armistice that...
By Sofia Celeste
A day that will never be forgotten, 11/11, which also marks the November 11th armistice that ended World War I, is also now known in China as the biggest retail of the year, if not the world. It’s basically China’s Black Friday just more massive, like “crazy, rich, Asian”-style massive. For...
A day that will never be forgotten, 11/11, which also marks the November 11th armistice that ended World War I, is also now known in China as the biggest retail of the year, if not the world. It’s basically China’s Black Friday just more massive, like “crazy, rich, Asian”-style massive. For starters, the bonanza kicked off festivities with a Taylor Swift concert and generates some serious coin...
Lindbergh Film Debuts
By NOWFASHION
“Naomi, I love you from head to toe – now get the fuck down here. I need two more shots,” Peter...
By NOWFASHION
By NOWFASHION
“Naomi, I love you from head to toe – now get the fuck down here. I need two more shots,” Peter Lindbergh once shouted candidly at Naomi Campbell, before jumping into a pool beside her during a photo shoot, to help ease her fear of the water.The late-photographer who died earlier this year was...
“Naomi, I love you from head to toe – now get the fuck down here. I need two more shots,” Peter Lindbergh once shouted candidly at Naomi Campbell, before jumping into a pool beside her during a photo shoot, to help ease her fear of the water.The late-photographer who died earlier this year was probably one of the only people who was allowed to joke with the supermodel that way.“I was terrible....