Dolce & Gabbana Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Milan
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Perhaps it was their recent legal troubles that had designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana feeling nostalgic about simpler times. When fashion was as much about having fun as it was building a business. Or possibly the wistful feel of the show was simply thanks to the designers once again taking Dolce’s Sicilian birthplace as their location of inspiration.

Whatever the case may be this collection was a rather subdued show for the designer duo, who used a symbolic olive tree as the backdrop to their catwalk- its branches protectively shrouding the top of the runway under its canopy of green leaves. Then from stage left came the male models. Many of them wearing a bold print on one item of clothing or another, say etchings of temples, antique coins or the faces of a Greek Gods like Zeus and Apollo, meant to conjure up the notion of mythology.

Besides all the prominent prints, the designers cemented their standing as expert tailors by showing a number of stretch fitted, often double breasted, suits – some of them interestingly cut from raw silk died in primary colors like blue, red and green. On the other hand it might have been a wiser move to have edited out the wide stripe business suits that had a few audience members snickering about designer prison garb.

But as the emotion provoking music of Ennio Morricone’s “Love Theme” from the film Cinema Paradiso washed over the audience, it was easy to get swept along with this rather one note show; even if it was a slightly melancholic sartorial melody.

- Jessica Michault

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