Dolce & Gabbana Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Milan
Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana seem to be on a permanent vacation on the sunny island of Sicily. Its sandy shores, azure ocean, and religious artifacts have all played out on the designer duo’s catwalk in recent memory. This time it was its Greek and Roman history, its almond trees and some traditional dress that came to the fore in a gilded show, that was one more love letter to add to the stack the designers continue to send.
The leitmotif of the collection was without a doubt the gold coin. It didn’t just play out on platform heels, big boxer sized belts and headbands. It’s circular shape and embossed features formed an entire golden dress -an Italian take on a hallmark Paco Rabanne style. The designers also evolved the concept a bit by printing coin images on floaty baby doll trapeze dresses to turn it into a polka dot motif. A pattern the two designers then decided to show in its more traditional interpretation as well. Dotting shapely black or red dresses in white or black spots. It was easy to imagine Sophia Loren, or her contemporary alternative Monica Bellucci looking amazing in those ensembles.
When the designers moved away from the graphic appeal of the coin motif they shifted gears and got romantic. Using prints of blooming almond trees, the designers brought the flowering tree to life via appliqué petals that trembled on top of dresses, tops, jackets and skirts.
There were also some more familiar ruined amphitheater vintage photo prints in the show. Their dramatic columns looking visually striking down the front of a shift dress, and seriously fun as the heel on a pair of sandals. Another Dolce & Gabbana touchstone, the lace dress, also made a brief appearance in both the black slip dress see though variety and in a shimmering gold option.
But it was those almond flowers, when embroidered onto brightly colored lacquered silk pieces, that showed a new avenue that the designers should try and explore a bit more in the future. It was in those rather original garments, which combined toughness and beauty, that the duo best represented their own personal philosophy.