Dsquared2 Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Milan
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It was a scat cat, jazz hot Cotton Club vibe on the Dsquared2 catwalk today. The twin designers Dean and Dan Caten tried to give a cool attitude to the fall/winter 2013 collection they had dubbed “La Nouvelle Noir”.

The new black concept was a bit one-note. Basically, it boiled down to the fact that all of the models on the catwalk were black. And the purported idea of soldiers returning from the front to work as day laborers who still liked to look smart seemed rather thin. It only held together thanks to the styling and accessories like the colorful ten gallon fedoras, retro black frame eye glasses, long scarves and velvet bow ties.

It all felt like window dressing for a collection filled with familiar Dsquared2 fair like worn denim pants cut and cuffed above the ankle, fitted vests, chunky cardigans and classic double breasted overcoats. But, honestly that wasn’t a bad thing. It was nice to see the designers clothing in a more straightforward presentation of what has become something of their hallmark aesthetic where outfits are tailored and layered on top and finish off in a well cut pair of jeans.

There were a few interesting additions to the uncomplicated collection. The twins inserted a bendable wire into the hem of blazers so that they could be twisted and turned to create a sculptural edge to a staple menswear item. Also, the addition of a voile of almost transparent black tulle to a white tuxedo shirt was an interesting way to give the crisp top an alluring shadow.

And for those waiting for the brand’s traditional beefcake moment, they were at long last rewarded at the finale. That’s when the models came out in retro underwear, the tops of which they then proceeded to stripe off and toss into the receptive audience. A jazzy finished to a show that didn’t stray much from the brand’s familiar melody.

- Jessica Michault

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