It was a déjà-vu moment at the DSquared2 show this season for anyone who had attended Dean and Dan Caten’s menswear show in January. Using the same set in the same location (albeit at 9pm instead of 9am) the designers revisited the same 1940s, back-from-the-war, jazz club story for its womenswear collection.
There is nothing wrong with going over the same sartorial ground per se. In fact one could see this show as complementing the menswear looks that had come before: the gal to go with the guy, if you will. But with about half of the female models wearing men’s suits and the same ten-gallon fedoras seen on the menswear catwalk, it felt more like a rehash.
When the models did dress like women their razor back crystal-covered tops that scooped down in the front looked like they were just one false move away from a wardrobe malfunction. Ditto the evening gowns with their trip-inducing trains that had a few models stumbling down the catwalk or forced to carry the extra fabric over their arm.
There were a few bright moments in the show. A well-cut three-quarter sleeve trench dress had potential as did a blue leather ensemble with a bold ruffle down its zipper front. But the collection never found its groove and felt out of synch with the times.
- Jessica Michault
Author and a host - Daria Shapovalova for NOWFASHION
Cameraman - Yuriy Semenyuk
Journalist - Anton Yeremenko
Music: Dmitriy Morozov