At a Dsquared2 show the set is almost as important as the collection. This season the twin designers Dean and Dan Caten took their audience to a photo shoot, but not just any photo shoot. This one was right out of the 1990s - a time when supermodels ruled the catwalks. In fact, the designers got even more specific than that by recreating (almost exactly) the look of the iconic January 1990 Peter Lindbergh photo shoot for British Vogue, which featured and defined the world’s supermodels.
Its sounds like a good idea; however, in reality the collection was so referential to one specific moment, that it quickly had no place to go. Speaking of references, Chanel might be ringing up the boys shortly to ask for their gear back. Since this collection so closely mimicked the Chanel style, layers of gold and leather chain embellishments, boxy quilted bags, pearl necklaces, and even Coco Chanel’s famous Verdura Maltese Cross cuffs, that any original sartorial ideas were lost underneath the heavy styling.
The Dsquared2 brand is built on a foundation of denim. And in this collection there were a few cute denim pieces that should keep the coffers full. Short shorts with a ruffle of fabric peaking out from the bottom, or a cropped second skin pair tricked out with zippers slicing up the calf, looked cool. The logo t-shirt, as well as the nipped in the waist jackets in perforated, quilted, or metallic leather are also sure to sell well.
Eveningwear had a slinky, rock and roll style, which used black lace diagonal inserts and semi sheer panels to give the pitch-black gowns some definition. But the story of this show was the rebellious urban streetwear and as far as that goes this collection got the shot it was looking for.
- Jessica Michault