This season, the Milan Fashion Week calendar is seeing some major changes to its schedule thanks to the arrival of Jane Reeves, the new chief executive of the Camera Nazionale della Moda. One of the more striking moves is that of the Dsquared show, which jumped from a 9 a.m slot on the last day to a better-suited, mid-afternoon spot today.
This meant, among other things, that the front row of Thursday's show was heaving with editors and reporters who usually sacrifice the brand's show for an early flight out to Paris.
As luck would have it, the big turn out was treated to a rather good and clearly commercially viable collection. Maybe that had to do with the woman who seemed to be twin designers Dean and Dan Caten's muse of the season. More than one editor remarked that the show's models, with there honey blonde hair pulled back in a low ponytail and thick black rimmed glasses, were dead ringers for J. Crew's creative director Jenna Lyons.
Whoever the duo's muse was, one thing was certain. She must be a savvy business woman to afford the cool all-white New York loft that was the backdrop to the colorful show.
As for the clothes themselves, this season the designers had fun experimenting with volume, bright color blocking and vibrant geometric prints. They deftly handled the roomy proportions they created using stiff raffia silk for pants or skirts, paired with crop tops. Less so on the angular shorts that poked out at peculiar angles at the sides.
There was also a sporty urban attitude to the entire collection. From the slouchy worn-in denim boyfriend pants (the brand's bread and butter staple), or the leather color-block polo shirts to the full-cut drawstring gym shorts, the show hit on the energy of the city streets. Even when the twins were piling on an impressive amount of beadwork they where doing it on a gray sweat shirt base.