There was a surprise in store for Duckie Brown regulars at today's presentation, namely in presentation. Normally shown on a dual runway with four sets of front rows, this season's collection was debuted in what can only be described as an open layout: seated guests and standing on one side with the models, runway and backstage on another.
Which of course was the other difference: the backstage. Like Isaac Mizrahi's 1994 collection, shown behind a scrim except without the scrim, this season's lineup from Steven Cox and Daniel Silver was visible from start to finish. And though this writer can't tell you what type of show there was before the looks started to come down the runway, he can tell you directly after the finale, the models started to strip off sans covering.
But of course we're here to talk about the pieces, not theatrics, and that's what the duo gave us, pieces. Pink chiffon shirts came down the runway with black curved trousers — a cut that is quickly becoming a staple of the brand if it's not already — and though it would seem on paper to read a tad fey, it felt oddly sure of itself. Rich fabrics elevated the collection, as did the coloration of burgundy, navy, purple and grey. The emphasis for brand regulars was definitely on the shirt. Some options came with deep V's, others as the loosest and thinnest of turtlenecks. Bombers slid on so easily that they seemed to be tops mocking bombers instead of bombers themselves.
It was a solid collection that should no doubt do well commercially. But the question does creep up: when New York has its own men's week, as it will this summer, will collections like this make any noise at all.