This season Elie Saab was feeling romantically nostalgic. On July 4th he celebrated his 25th wedding anniversary with his wife Claudine. On that special day a quarter of a century ago, the blushing bride wore a gold dress created by Saab. Understandably, the memory of that pivotal moment still looms large in the designer's mind and the gilded hue of his wife's gown became the leitmotif of his latest haute couture collection.
Saab developed the gold concept to incorporate a Byzantine focus, a perfect pairing that gave the collection a premise on which to build gowns of shimmering lace and luxe fur. All of it, like always, fit for a princess.
The tasteful beauty of the dresses and the cape backed tops paired with slim matching pants where very much in keeping with what the world has come to expect, and buy, from Saab. Where the designer experimented a bit was the manner in which he focused on the shoulders this season. Accentuating them in furs or sculpting them, almost like wings, to stand away from the body. And among all the gold and jewel-hued intricately embroidered ensembles, a series of voluminous black dresses with intermittent blooms printed onto the fabric stood out in style.
If there was one incongruous element to this refined show, it was the abundant use of music from Nirvana on the soundtrack. But the only music Saab will be hearing is that of the tills ringing up all the orders from this offering. This season, Saab has got the Midas touch.
(Re)discover the Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Couture collection right here.