The Lebanese designer makes perfectly elegant clothes, and is always a name you hear on the red carpet, in the most significant events around the world. This season, his message is specifically "urban", but also specifically Mr. Saab, named "Urban Elegance". Vangelis’ “Love Theme” from the film swelled on the soundtrack, and out came a robotic army of models with blunt fringes and icy stares.
Mr. Saab is always searching to magnify femininity, and for this collection, the Elie Saab woman conquers with restraint in suits with nipped waists and precise lines. The show began and Karlie Kloss appeared first in a skirt suit with a jutting peplum, spliced intp two shades of shimmering tweed, followed by meticulously constructed skirts, a lot of high-waist trousers in caviar tweed and butterfly blouses in satin and chiffon, in a palette of anthracite, ash, sand and empire green. Dresses have marked waists, from shifts in crêpe georgette to silhouettes with body-skimming panels and cut-out details.
The dramatic side of the collection was presented through the architectural shapes of belted coats and collarless coats in gray cashmere, including a voluminous cape in black wool panne, wildly elegant coats in fox fur or larch green mink giving character to the show.
By way of contrast, cobweb lace inserts bring a touch of graphic chic to collars, necklines and sleeves; a print casts bronze-tinged branches onto delicate chiffon.
To highlight the woman's silhouettes, the designer has always worked with fine and delicate materials. Dazzling intricate details and a strong sense of beauty. The Elie Saab woman slips into an embroidered column, long-sleeved dresses for the evening, illuminated by matte gold sequins and crystals. Light pours over her: metallic reflections echo silver, opaline and pearly translucence.