Emilia Wickstead Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 London
So far most of London's shows have been concentrated round Somerset House, at the heart of the West End. Emilia Wickstead moved things eastwards though, to the old Lloyds Bank headquarters in the heart of the city. It was an interesting location: this, after all, is (quite literally) where the money is. And Wickstead - known for making pretty dresses for pretty princesses - has accidentally become one of the faces of 21st century Establishment fashion.
That was something she seemed to be in the mood to rebel against, though. The brief show notes were unexpectedly personal, talking about youth, memories, and what she termed, 'contradictory feelings' about herself. And the clothes she showed, in the stolidly Edwardian banking hall, were pointedly simple and light. Lemon and rose-pink mini-dresses and separates gave way to thick-textured tangerine and amber kaftans, and to glittering full-length gowns. Detailing was flatly streamlined, with flap pockets and folded waistbands providing the sole detail accents.
But it was when Wickstead relaxed that her clothes came into their own. Those silvery disco dresses billowed out at the back, creating halos of fabric as the models walked. Her separates were cleanly cut, and confidently sculpted. And the highlight was perhaps the seemingly-simplest thing of all - a fine-striped ivory gown, cut low at the front and back and spreading into a full, grandly graceful skirt.