Emilio Pucci Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Milan

The fast paced Pucci show felt like designer Peter Dundas’s models were in a hurry to get to a party. This collection was a love letter to those party girls who like to look sexy, have the body for second-skin - often see-through - ensembles and the devil may care attitude to pull it all off.

After last season’s homage to the Orient, Dundas refocused his eye on the iconic Pucci prints that are the foundation of this house. Disregarding the retro forties/fifties vibe that has been vibrating on a number of catwalks this week in Milan, the designer’s gaze had a slightly more modern slant. Using the Otto print from the 1960s and styling his show to bring to mind the cool rock chicks of that era (mussed up hair with long bangs, thick lashes and thigh-high boots) he sent out outfits that were of the abbreviated variety.

Mini dresses, hot pants, short skirts and thigh-skimming coats were the order of the day. But, thanks to those cuissard boots, Dundas hedged his bets a bit as he was able to keep his models covered up. He also mixed things up, creating eclectic ensembles that would pair those brown suede boots with a short ruffle hemmed Pucci patterned skirt, an animal print belt and a shimmering sequin top. Or he would combine a fuzzy pink fur coat with black leather short pants and a lace top.

But the thread that linked this show together and produced the strongest results was the colorful Pucci print. It first came out in its classic incarnation as a silk dress. But then Dundas experimented with how he could reinterpret the pattern in more unexpected ways. He transformed it by crafting the swirling print in different lace motifs on mini dresses or simply sliced sections of the pattern out to use exposed skin as a pink substitute. They were both saucy and fun ways to decode the DNA of the house.

Dundas’s returned to the fold felt right and the collection looked very “right now.”

- Jessica Michault
 

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