The fashion world needs to look to the stars to try and understand what the future holds for Peter Dundas. The rumor mill has been churning for quite a while that the artistic director of Pucci will soon be heading to a new house. Reading between the lines of the extra solicitous thank-yous on the back of the fall/winter 2015 show notes, which read a bit more like a goodbye letter, it certainly seemed that the stars are aligning for a career change.
It was somehow fitting, then, that this show ended up being called the zodiac collection. On the runway Dundus transformed astrological signage into outfits with attitude. The zodiac symbols on slinky beaded evening gowns or crafted in a Pucci print style were nice. But there were some designs that felt a bit more derivative. The velvet black garments covered in gold-embroidered symbols come to mind.
Better were the pieces that had only the faintest or no apparent link to the show’s title. The optical elusion-looking black and white outfits that opened the show, all the ribbon-wrapped pieces, from beaded dresses to glossy snake skin strip jackets, and the wide leg velvet pants felt more down to earth.
The stars didn’t exactly line up for this collection. But there were some bright lights among all the cosmic clothing. Pieces that could act like the north star for whoever takes a bow at the end of the show next season.