Eric Tibusch Couture Fall Winter 2013 Paris

Are we on the brink of having an Eighties moment again? Nostalgia was certainly rearing its head: the recently launched French Vanity Fair devoted a dozen pages to a flashback on the mythical Parisian club Les Bain Douches, now a luxury hotel opening soon. Then came the surprising news of the return of legendary designer Claude Montana, by the way of a collaboration with couturier Eric Tibusch.

But beyond the momentary buzz of this news, there was the reality of Tibusch’s couture show. Could it outshine the hype of Montana? In the fifty looks, long-story-short, it didn’t but the collection nevertheless put up a brave fight. Paris and its glamorous districts, after which each look was named, set the tone for the silhouettes that ranged from mini-sheaths in exotic skins or golden feathers, to dramatic long coats. It exuded the sensuality Tibusch is famous for but less overtly as dresses favored tailoring over revealing. There were still, here and there, extravagant departures and unexplainable touches like oversized watches –courtesy of French brand Offshore – hanging off a fold of a shirt, or worn as a bow tie.

As to exactly which looks the consulting designer had created, the mystery remained, but his subtle guidance could be felt on so many places. For the improvement it brought to the collection, one can hope he will continue to inspire the younger generation.

- Lily Templeton