No doubt inspired by his childhood spent in Tahiti in the wake of a military father, he plucked his color palette from the soft, warm glow of a Polynesian summer sky, contrasting sharply with his snow-weary guests. “This 14th collection will remain a mystery for the public,” boasted his show notes, but with the full extend of his creative drive on display here, Eric Tibusch left little to the imagination.
Despite their innocently colored clothes, his ladies are all femme fatale off duty, their sultry curves embraced by the French designer’s creations. Amidst a sea of overtly sexy offerings, he offered a few gems, particularly on tailored ensembles that drew attention to what makes a woman sensual yet refined. A translucent twin-set embroidered with transparent-on-blush tropical flowers paired with a caramel-hued swingy full skirt stood out, as did a halter neck pantsuit.
His menswear, done in the same blush/beige/nude palette, felt a little contrived. Not quite sure many men outside the entertainment industry will have the guts to don a pale mango satin suit. Cut from paler cotton or wool gabardine however, the almost-white hue made for a handsome update to tropicalized suits, one that could also be imagined in country clubs during the summer months.
Had his show been whittled down to a more compact selection, this collection would have felt a little less like an endless sunset, and better showcased Tibusch’s deep appreciation of sensuality
- Lily Templeton