Ermanno Scervino Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Milan

Known for its luxe furs and decorative puffer jackets popular with rich Russians, Ermanno Scervino since a few seasons has been looking to express other sides of its personality. Judging by this show’s wintry headgear - fur babushkas - the Italian label is still courting the same clients, though the ritz was more restrained with Swarovski crystals lightly dusting a simple LBD, say, or coating the cuffs of a plum mohair dress in a retro midi-length with a soft turtleneck. Riding one of the season’s trends were feminized takes on men’s tailoring. Evoking relaxed elegance, Scervino tweaked the proportions of a classic men’s gray wool suit to adapt it to a woman’s curves, elongating the jacket to create a thigh-length coat with pushed up sleeves, worn over a long waist-defining double-breasted waistcoat. Asymmetric gray wool dresses and skirts carried volume at the side thanks to extra pleated inserts of fabric. The hourglass coats in men’s fabrics and tailored dresses with subtle capped sleeves were among other smart options, with in the evening camp a floor-grazing powdery pink velvet column dress taking the top spot. Conversely, the leopard print and biker themes brought the tone down.

- Katya Foreman
 

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