Etro Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Milan
In the "what came first, the chicken or the egg" debate, Kean Etro has chosen his side – the egg. The designer built his entire Spring/Summer 2016 collection around the oval oeuf.
But, as always with Kean, the thought process behind his choice went much deeper and broader than just using the round shape in a literal embellishment on his designs. The egg came to represent life before the split between man and woman. The beginning of it all. Infinity.
All these big ideas were expresses on the circular, egg-shaped, runway. There Etro created suits with redingote coat, their lapels MIA to create an unfettered rounded collar line. The brand's iconic paisley was set in a converging pattern, pulling the eye towards the center of garments. Some were crafted in a pointillism pattern that had an ethnic, almost aboriginal, vibe – a sensation enhanced by a didgeridoo being played on the soundtrack (Etro himself is an avid practitioner).
The removal or hiding away of fastenings was another way the designer streamlined the look of this collection. Even the pointy-toed footwear was of the slide-on-and-go variety. A relaxing tone-on-tone color palette and the use of fabrics like crepe de Chine on easy V-neck tops and chiffon shirts was the way Etro got his men in touch with their feminine side.
Overall, this was a bit of a new sartorial recipe for the house. But Etro didn't break any eggs while getting the reserved elegance just right.