Fashion in a Flash #2
As New York Fashion Week grows and evolves into a host of new formats, new fashion, and new designers, it still remains a stage for some of the industry’s most commercial and creative looks. Beyond skepticism and questioning, truth is, there’s a lot to go through including shows, presentations, show rooms, and events – and so much to look at. Here, we cut through some of the noise and highlight the top looks that define the collections, whether it’s gaging NYFW’s current pulse or making style headlines. Click back daily for updated installments: It’s fashion in a flash!
COACH FW18 show in New York. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
Sitting on the edges of a gloomy "forest" scene, trees glimmering with glitter, where flickering televisions had been randomly placed, guests were treated to a collection replete with a stunning array of lace, fringe, layering, and patchworks. The consistent (and Americana infatuated) creative of Coach, Stuart Vevers, explored the tension between urban toughness and what the show notes described as "the American Southwest." Despite a plethora of looks that will surely prove commercially successful, it's very likely that you'll begin to see those cowboy silhouette boots, Western shirts, and, of course, that new range of leather backpacks popping up all over social media soon.
ZIMMERMANN FW18 show in New York. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
It would seem that for her Fall collection, Nicky Zimmermann widened her view of who the woman wearing her clothes might be. Setting aside the brighter colors and rich frills she has gladly accustomed us to, the collection – which she appropriately named Unbridled, an equestrian reference about Victorian era romantics – was more muted in color, subdued, and earthy (or less beach front like?) in feel. Zimmermann didn’t by any means lessen the babe quality she tends to bring forth though. Despite what most editors have concluded is a season that was inspired by the Australian outback, and even when the pieces were menswear inspired (by way, for instance, of a shearling coat or bomber jacket), it remained all feminine.
CAROLINA HERRERA FW18 show in New York. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
As if the current conversation about NYFW’s losses and changes wasn’t dense enough, it was confirmed shortly after her show that this would be Carolina Herrera’s last. The designer is saying adieu not just to NYFW but the world of fashion, and so another era defining chapter ends. For the occasion, the collection included her iconic touches by way of wide statement belts, white button-downs, pocketed skirts, and those amazing slippers. You will be missed Carolina, and we thank you for passing your muses on to Wes Gordon, who we're impatient to see next season.
Zero + Maria Cornejo
ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO FW18 show in New York. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Maria Cornejo might have headed downtown for a more urban look, but her mind (and vision) stayed far away from it: among the trees, the rivers, and the mountains. In short, her mind was still focused on nature and on the planet, as it has been for many seasons. Using sustainable materials – recycled cashmere being one of the highlights of this season even though corduroy had a major presence – she delivered a cool feeling collection which included, among many other noteworthy pieces, a reddish orange linear jumpsuit and a beautiful turquoise dress.
HELLESSY FW18 show in New York. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
"Beauty, not luxury, is what I value," a quote by Tony Duquette, an American artist who was known for designing bold sets for movies and film, opened Hellessy's show notes. With that in mind, one could easily appreciate the optimistic bright jewel tones (ruby reds and agate pinks!), sumptuous fabrics, and lively original prints of Sylvie Millstein’s Fall collection. Classic and modern but all feminine, this collection was a case study of how more is...well, more.
See the full COACH FW18 collection here.
See the full ZIMMERMANN FW18 collection here.
See the full CAROLINA HERRERA FW18 collection here.
See the full ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO FW18 collection here.
See the full HELESSY FW18 collection here.