Fashion in a Flash #2
New York Fashion Week kicks off the international shows, setting the stage for some of the industry’s most commercial and creative looks. As hard as anyone may try to see it all running from venue to venue and sunrise to sunset, there’s a lot to go through including shows, presentations, parties, and events – and so much to look at. Here, we cut through some of the noise and highlight the top looks that define the collections, whether it’s keeping a finger on NYFW’s current pulse or making style headlines.
Ulla Johnson Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.
Despite a consistent and defining style of design – let's call it bohemian and ethereal in essence – the American designer's work is also often full of subtle surprises, whether in content or form. A meditation on craft, Johnson's Spring 2019 collection focused on artisanal exploration with whimsical pieces that captured the attention of many editors and influencers. As the intricate looks succeeded one after another on the runway, spanning from batik dresses to beaded aprons and romantic tops, one could almost anticipate how they would feel simply by observing them.
R13 Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.
Looking back at his childhood and teenage years, R13’s Chris Leba delivered a collection that felt as youthful as it did, well, about him. For a brand that has been previously associated with a 90s feel dipped in the grunge-era – think monochromic colors, flannels and torn denim – the appearance on the runway of tie-dye t-shirts, jeans, and blazers was as unexpected as it was visually refreshing. Leba’s ex-surfer vibes felt present for most of the collection, and the carefree sentiment that stemmed from it was welcome.
Mansur Gavriel Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Known for their tempered and refined minimalism, design duo Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur revealed a softer side for this season’s collection at NYFW by way of knit trousers, double-faced coats in their various signature color palette, and cozy sweater dresses. They even ventured into eveningwear which their design DNA had not yet been about. It was a successful exploration as well, judging by the look that closed the show, a tinsel black-and-silver skirt paired with matching jacket. This was all complimented, of course, by their beloved array of accessories they are known for by it-girls and editors around the world.
Christian Cowan Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
Although it’s not always clear who he is making clothes for (other than those moving under the limelight), Cowan certainly provided a wide range of options this time around. His collection included over-the-top looks exemplified by huge sleeves and checkerboard patterns, flirty moments by way of sheer bustier tops or daring dresses, and even some risky sexiness with dangerously body-hugging dresses adorned with clear PVC and rhinestones. The designer also included pieces for ‘everyday people’ including logo sweatshirts, shorts, and classic denim.