Fashion In A Flash #2 LFW
As London Fashion Week draws to a close, fast-track yourself with the collections that stood out.
Core Koma got a romantic flourish for Spring/Summer 2018. David is a designer whose clothes take charge, and these certainly did. It was a departure from the strictness of last season, but it maintained the precise nature upon which he has built and come to define his aesthetic. He knows his audience and he can sure design for them. Punches of red made you sit up and take note if you hadn’t already; and the unfurling ruffles were done just right – nothing fussy or whimsical about them. That came in the lace numbers, yet it never veered to being anything other than sexy. Which is what Koma is very good at doing indeed. "I wanted to keep a strong powerful silhouette but with a lighter more feminine feeling and for the ruffles to be sporty and aerodynamic," the designer explained after the show.
Back to the Eighties, into the streets of Soho – it’s party time for the Topshop girl. In fact, this whole collection screamed “I’m going out.” Don’t bother asking what time she’ll be coming back though. Despite the party-glam vibe, this collection didn’t feel as glamorous or special as perhaps was intended, and as we have seen elsewhere on the schedule.
There is only one holy grail for the aspiring fashion designer or fashion student: to have their own store. Huishan Zhang has cracked that. A standout graduate of Central Saint Martins’ BA back in 2010, it’s been a quick rise to success – Linda Fargo among those to namecheck at his Spring/Summer 2018 presentation. Of course, he’s put the work in and there have been countless accolades and impressive achievements to note along the way: a nomination for the LVMH Designer Prize among them. In what was a more fun and frivolous offering this season, he gave us punchy colours and flusters of feathers – a bumble bee of a dress among the most delicious!
It was a Peter Pilotto rainbow that made for the Insta-finale this season: a pale palette that has swept the board so far at fashion week rendering dresses that harked back to the shapes and styles the duo built their name upon. And that was nice to see. Mixed in were sportswear jackets, perhaps a little late in the game for this reference, but there was an overall lighter and more wearable feel that was all for the good.
Fashion right now loves a bit of shaking up the old shirt and suit combination. Yasuko Furuta did that for her Toga collection via plastic panels and some nifty trouserwork. In fact, the trousers were the thing to note here, as were the entwined tea dresses or those that made a feature of showing some leg: encrusted with beads and cut to show off the knee.
Erdem is the go-to guy when you want a good dress. Spring/Summer 2018, he has plenty more of where that came from, this time noting photographs of Queen Elizabeth II, her coronation, and other snapshots of her life as inspiration. It made for a very polished and refined collection imbued with vintage charm: frock coats and ballgowns, tweedy tailoring and puffball skirts, tea and prom dresses. The usual Erdem stuff. In case you hadn’t heard, the designer is the latest name to team up with H&M and his wares will be available from November just in time for party season, which is exactly where this mainline collection, albeit among the romance of a different time and different place (when we had reason and occasion to wear such beautiful things), will also be ideally suited.
Bringing a slice of Milan to London, Mr Armani swapped fashion capitals this season and, in doing so, appropriately tweaked his trousersuits to be colourful and fun with crab motifs and jaunty styling.