Fashion in a Flash #3
New York Fashion Week kicks off the international shows, setting the stage for some of the industry’s most commercial and creative looks. As hard as anyone may try to see it all running from venue to venue and sunrise to sunset, there’s a lot to go through including shows, presentations, parties, and events – and so much to look at. Here, we cut through some of the noise and highlight the top looks that define the collections, whether it’s keeping a finger on NYFW’s current pulse or making style headlines.
Area Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Area can be deliberately and intelligently quirky – which is welcome sometimes throughout a long week of shows – especially amidst some of the dramatic attention seeking concepts floating around NYFW runways. For this season, Area’s designers Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg chose an obscure artist (or at least a person it seems no one at the show had ever heard of): Libuše Niklová as a point of inspiration. Apparently, she designed inflatable toys for kids and adults alike back in the 60s. An interesting reference – embodied by some of the pieces, including their blown up metal earrings – that didn’t prevent the designers from venturing into other equally unique directions that made this collection, their third, the most memorable one yet.
Sies Marjan Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Sander Lak and the brand might have a short history, but the symbiosis is there and has been progressing considerably in the span of their six collections together. For Spring 2019, Lak even somewhat distanced himself (even if not completely) from using his incredible and defining use of colors, and dedicated his minacious attention to detail on silhouettes, lines, and textures. Embossed plastics, washed cottons, and painted leathers found their unexpected way into the collection. Marinière stripes, cargo elements, and slightly broader shapes, all of which allegedly were inspired by his father, added a fresh take to the designer’s signature aesthetic.
Michael Kors Collection Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
The setting of Kors’ collection was the beach, where one can presume he spends much of his time (if we were him, I know we would). This fits well into his usual feel-good collections. The designer is not here to dwell on political or social issues, or to remind anyone of how complicated and cold the world is; he’s here to give you an escape route using vibrant colors, distracting prints, flowy silhouettes, and fun shows. Today was telling of this happy resistance: the day might have been overcast and humid as can be (what a gloomy NYFW week it’s been!), but you would have known nothing about that while sitting in the show’s colorful and cheerful setup at New York Seaport’s Pier 17. The lime and watermelon dresses, a comfy white jumpsuit, surf shirts, and baja sweaters complemented this ambiance of sunny summers all too well.
Self-Portrait Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.
Whether we’re talking about his blouses, coats, or his signature cocktail dresses, Han Chong’s designs are generally anchored in texture, and what has been coined as “statement dressing.” Aside from a few stripes here and there, prints were absent. This time bold, clean, and geometric graphics showed up, in part by way of florals and multi-prints. It was less stiff, structured and proper, and had been pushed into a more relaxed, soft, and comfortable direction. Maybe that’s because, as he mentioned in passing during interviews, he had finally taken his first vacation since founding the brand? I’d say so.