Institutions, devices, and mechanisms of subjugation are the instruments that the “biopolitics” (quoting the French philosopher Michel Foucault) use to impose conducts and paths that keep us under invisible surveillance and classification. It’s a kind of subtle control on our lives that silently push us in a direction that we thought we freely decided, but actually we did not. On a lower scale,...

The Iconic Shox by Nike is legendary – not just for the innovative materials it is crafted with, but also for the bright colors and its peculiar circular pistons. The model first hit the shelves in 2003 and its quirky elements and urban street allure rendered the model a great success.  Today, the latest version of the Shox, the Shox TL, combines breathable mesh into the upper portion of the...

The earth collection of Giorgio Armani is strongly linked with our planet. The browns of the earth with touches of blue in different shades, greys, and light pink composed the palette for a collection that wanted to celebrate the beauty of our planet. “This is my way to remember all the natural elements and their importance,” explained Armani backstage before the show. “We just have only one...

With JLo’s stride down the Versace Spring/Summer 2020 runway in the scandalously sexy, legendary jungle dress, she dropped the mic on any other fashion show here. With skin to die for and a booty that has not lost any of its bodaciousness, the singer, dancer, actress, mother of twins, just closed a global concert tour celebrating her 50th birthday and the Versace appearance was another crowning...

Stick with the best you can do, and it will become timeless. Trends are ephemeral and, if not rooted in a solid ground, they have no future. Tod’s, part of the Della Valle Group, perfectly exemplifies this strategy: season by season it evolved in order to reach the maximum level of luxury. Forget fashion gimmicks when Mister Diego Della Valle is part of the game. Attracting flamboyant audiences...

The speed of our world often makes us forget our past, our roots. Brands and designers chase things that aren’t worth it or that aren’t what they really need to focus on, in order to make the right move. But a company must be very structured to go through these difficult years. “In this Emporio Armani collection, I simply went back to my past and reworked it in order to make it contemporary,”...

With a collection that unfolded among the dusty manuscripts of Milan’s Biblioteca Braidense, Giada’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection saluted the cosmopolitan jet-set – just months after it opened its first US monobrand stores. 
Giada feted the Boston store, situated on the edge of the Boston Common and next to the city’s Four Season’s Hotel, in April. Since Boston is not a fashion mecca, Giada...

Fashion has always been, in no small part, about the rich. The industry first sprang to life in the 19th century, to indulge the whims of royalty and aristocrats; decades later, the great houses of Paris couture’s golden age were sustained by a tiny, fiercely loyal (and high-spending) clientele. London, though, has always been more democratic; it’s the city of Mary Quant and Carnaby Street, of...

“The feeling in today’s world is that everything is too much. Overproduction, overconsumption, overspeed. This makes a harsh contrast with the need we have to consume and pollute less,” explained Miuccia Prada before the show wearing a beautiful and very bourgeoise outfit: a blue cashmere pullover, long pearl necklaces, white slip dress, and black polished décolletées. “It’s the contradiction...

A short film played at the beginning of the Marques’Almeida show this season in which the brand’s “MA girls” talked about what they’d want their daughters to know. The designer Erdem referenced Tina Modotti as muse, noting: “At the time of her death, the world might have been on the brink of modernity, but it was still in the midst of war, battling ideologies that would rip apart the very...

After a weekend of searing sunshine, Monday morning saw London return to business as usual; grey skies, sullen rain, and trains crowded with commuters in various combinations of what currently passes as the city’s 21st century working wardrobe; crisp blazers or fitted biker jackets, shirts or slouchy tees, pleated skirts or slim trousers. The morning newspapers were splashed with images from...

Last season, the debut collection of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, freshly appointed as Artistic Director at United Colors of Benetton, actually left me a bit surprised. How can a brand that desperately needs to get back the trust of the youth propose a funny show, even a bit eccentric with the styles, instead of wearable and easy items that were previously the pure DNA of the brand from...

The new fashion season begins with quite some intrigue. After Virgil Abloh’s announcement that he would take a break – on doctor’s orders – from his duties at Louis Vuitton and Off-White, it is now Demna Gvasalia’s turn to cause some ink to flow. Earlier today, WWD released a statement announcing Gvasalia’s departure from the much-lauded and controverted fashion collective, in which the former...

Earlier this week, British Fashion Council chief executive Caroline Rush posted a picture on Instagram from London Fashion Week in 2009, showing a slice of the starry front row (Liv Tyler, Emma Watson, Gwyneth Paltrow) at Burberry’s SS2010 show. For the brand and its designer, Christopher Bailey, the show marked a triumphant homecoming – and for British fashion, it signalled the start of a...

London Fashion Week, like most of the fashion weeks this season, has put sustainability front and centre. For some designers, however, it’s been part of their brand DNA since the beginning. Step forward Phoebe English who, though launched in 2011, is notably still a relatively young and small brand on the schedule. The Central Saint Martins graduate teamed up with biodynamic health and beauty...